![]() |
|
|||||
|
Folk tatar clothesRamziya Mukhamedova The alyapkych apron formed a part of the clothes of the young Tatar women and men living in Kazan and in the Volga-Ural region. It was the element onot only the work but daily clothes as well. In women's wear it was the element of a holiday dress. The apron was usually decorated with the woven patterns or embroidery. Traditional headgear of the Tatar women is peculiar and original. Early in the history a noticeable distinction was made between the headgear of an unmarried girl and a married woman. Women's headdresses retained their local peculiarities. Girl's headgear included a takya hat and a soft (without hard band) kalfak headdress worn with uka chachak headband. Knitted with threads of different colours the town kalfak headdresses were decorated with embroidery, chenille, volume applique, braid or silver fringe. In the second half of the 19th century the hard-band velvet kalfak headdresses were in wide use among the Tatar Moslem women. Both girls and women wore them in combination with the factory-made head-coverings. Up to the late 19th century the compound headgear including a chechkab hairdress and a tastar towel-shaped head-covering went on existing among the Tatars of the Oksk-Sursk basin (Kasims and Mishars). Traditional headgear of the Kryashens is also very original. On the one hand it retained the archaic shape of the Tatar head-coverings (bash yaulyk, ak yaulyk, tugerek yaulyk) and on the other hand it included a melenchek hairdress and a sureke headdress adopted from the Russian women. In combination with chigeche temple coin ornaments and oly syrga large filigree earrings the headgear set of the Kryashens appeared rather archaic. The base of the headgear worn by the Astrakhan Tatar women was a high frame with a miyezbek head band and a chigelek temple ornament. The high frame headdresses were also worn by the Kazan Tatar women in the late 18th and early 19th centuries: A headgear set of the Siberian Tatars was charac-rerized by a sarauts head band. Of great variety were the Tatar women's traditional head-coverings (kyekcha, urpek, tastar, kushyaulyk, etc.). The old women put on kamchat burek fur band hats over the head-coverings. Girls also wore the fur band hats most often without any head-coverings. Typical of the Tatar women's footwear were chitek and kevesh patterned shoes. During field work the Tatar women as well as men put on bast-shoes worn with broad-cloth or knitted stockings. Jewelery was widely favored by the Tatar women. The most popular material for jewelery was silver. Silver was combined with the precious stones: cornelian, turquoise, emerald, etc. Adornments made of gilded silver had wider distribution than those made of gold. The Tatar craftsmen were the masters of various techniques (melloing, filigree, engraving, etc.). Very effective was the technique of incrustation of the filigree cells with turquoise, cornelian. The head (forehead, hair, ear), neck, breast and hand ornaments were extermely varied. In the rural areas silver coins, corals, pearl buttons were often used as ornaments. Shoulder band and large fabric breast ornaments covered all over with coins were of particular characteristic of the women's costumes of the Kryashens and Mishars from the Oksk-Sursk basin. The turn of the 19th and 20th centuries was the epoch of the development of new forces and democratic tendencies. In clothes the spirit of the times was expressed by more daring creative approach to the traditions, making the process of loss of the clothes local traits more active, consolidating them in the common national standard. However the process of formation of the national clothes of the Tatars was realized with different intensity in various regions of their residence. For example the Kryashens didn't accept the national form of clothes at all. In towns and the nearby villages this process was more active. Under the influence of new forces the traditional dress of the Tatars lost some archaic features. A new refined style of the Tatar costume was formed. In women's wear this style was characterized by a dress with a short close-fitting sleeveless jacket (kysmaly kulmek), a small pinned kalfak headdress, ichigi patterned boots or shoes. In men's wear it included a slightly shortened shirt, a shortened kamzol, trousers of the European model, a short kazakin, a kelepush plain top scull cap made of black velvet and ichigi boots with kaush leather galoshes. Today the Tatar national costume actually came out of use. But its variants stylized in imitation of the festive national dress continue to exist in the costumes of participants of the amateur performances, i. e. on the stage.
|
©2004-2012, http://luiza-m.narod.ru/ |